Norton of Morton

Read a new instalment of Norton of Morton every Saturday at 4 o'clock

Saturday 17 November 2018

Teba style with Curzon Classics

In which G.M. Norton lauds the finest Spanish invention such the siesta

Outfit details 
Beret: Je ne sais pas, Shirt: M&S via beneficiary boutique, Tie: Bows N Ties, Jacket: Curzon Classics, Pocket square: Cravat Club, Cords: Samuel Windsor, Briefcase: Faire Leather Co, Shoes: Loake Woodstock

The more I delve into the history of menswear, the more I discover interesting items not usually seen on your typical man about town.

A couple of years ago, I came across a pictorial of a Teba jacket, a traditional Spanish item of clothing that we have royalty to thank for it’s creation.

Occasionally, I’d stumble across more photographs until the Teba jacket achieved an almost mythical status, that only the menswear illuminati had possession of. The clothing equivalent of a secret handshake. Or a unicorn.

Well, thanks to Curzon Classics, a British country clothing company operating in Seville, I am now the proud wearer of not one, but two Teba jackets.

Before I launch into superlatives to describe the merits of the Teba jacket, I’m going to embark on a quick history lesson (you there, at the back – quiet!) to tell you more about Curzon Classics.

Curzon Classics are run by husband and wife team, Karen and Andrew. The couple both worked in London before upping sticks and moving to Spain. 

Curzon Classics specialise in British country menswear with their range including tailored jackets and waistcoats in tweed and moleskin, wax jackets, classic cotton Tattersall shirts, lambswool and tweed ties, cotton and moleskin trousers, tweed caps and crushable, waterproof felt hats. In fact, everything a well-dressed chap needs. 

What's more, all their products are manufactured in Europe, mainly the UK, Spain, Italy and Portugal.  

And now for another bit of history.

The blue blood origins of the Teba jacket

It’s said the Teba jacket was dreamt up by King Alfonso XIII of Spain. A sporty chap and keen hunter, he commissioned a tailor on Savile Row to make him a jacket that was light, comfortable and with enough 'give' for when taking part in his country pursuits. Of course, this led to his chum and fellow playboy, Count Teba, to compliment the King on this unique tailoring creation. Being a kind soul and rolling in dosh, King Alfonso promptly had one made for his fellow nobleman and soon, with a glowing endorsement from those two Latin bon vivants, the jacket became a sensation and desired by everybody who came into contact with it. It soon become christened the Teba, named after the Count although the King no doubt did no such thing and insisted on calling it the Alfonso instead.

Fantastic features and where to find them

At this point, you may be wondering what on earth makes the Teba jacket so different from other jackets available. I can understand this, dear reader. After all, to casually glance at this Teba from Curzon Classics, it is able to blend into its surroundings, whether it be town or country. This chameleon like quality is part of the jacket’s undoubted charm. But please do allow me to highlight the features.

Half-lined and unstructured (meaning no shoulder padding and the like which bulks up traditional British jackets), the Teba has a relaxed, almost louche look. I’m really favouring unstructured jackets at the moment, I must admit.

The standout feature is the notch-less collar, which could be turned up if it gets a little breezy. The collar has not one, but two working buttonholes on one of the lapels. I did try to find out the reason for two buttonholes, but was unable to get to the bottom of it. Regardless, I like it.

The other feature of note is the button cuffs, as found on shirts. One could roll up one’s sleeves for extra louche points, which I may well do at some point.

Most jackets tend to be two or three buttoned, unless it’s a modern abomination which has just the single button. Perhaps mimicking a classic mod style, albeit with a pleasingly lower gorge, the Teba has FOUR of the things. Of course, you’re not supposed to fasten all four - that would just be silly. For best results, the second and third buttons should be fastened, although who am I to tell you what button to fasten? This high number of buttons adds to the almost cardigan-like vibe that the Teba radiates.

The jacket is also ventless. I quite like this on certain jackets – I particularly like the effect when I stuff my hand in my pockets. On the breast sits a well-rounded patch pocket and further down we have two big patch pockets with flaps, ideal for cramming with one’s accoutrements.

I received two Teba jackets from Curzon Classics – one in a delightful navy wool and the other in the finest brown herringbone tweed made by Abraham Moon in Yorkshire. The jackets have a springy feel, making them exceedingly comfortable to wear.

Made in a little Spanish workshop, Curzon Classics have released a stunning selection of Tebas in a range of tweeds and wool.

Out in the field

Since receiving the Teba jackets, they’ve both become my constant companions. Although these photographs only show me wearing them with a shirt and tie, I have also worn the jacket with a polo shirt at the weekend. During the spring and summer, I look forward to combining my navy Teba with a Breton top.

Outfit details 
Beret: Je ne sais pas, Shirt: M&S via beneficiary boutique, Tie: Bows N Ties, Jacket: Curzon ClassicsPocket square: Silk.PSSignet ring: Rebus Signet RingsCords: Samuel Windsor, Briefcase: Faire Leather Co, Shoes: Loake Woodstock

As it’s lightweight, it has year-round appeal and could be the ultimate travel jacket, capable of being stored away into a small bag and looking good when taken out. I should really plan a trip to Spain with it - the Teba would be perfect paired with a lunchtime Vino and some tapas. For now, my local park will have to do.

In a world where everything looks the same, the Teba stands out as a proud reminder that not everything is as it seems. Still relatively unique to Spain, that is quite an accomplishment. Bravo to Spain and bravo to Curzon Classics.

G.M. Norton

Protagonist of 'Norton of Morton'

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